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[March 2017 Arts] Restaurant stands out in Westport culinary scene

[March 2017 Arts] Restaurant stands out in Westport culinary scene

By Renee Weisz ’17

 

Hidden underground, but by no means undiscovered, on 90 Post Road East in downtown Westport, awaits the self-described “central European gastropub,” Rothbard Ale and Larder.

Traditional festive music and a doorway draped with multi-colored lights immediately transports visitors to a German ski-town scene. Upon entering, my eyes drifted to the reindeer decorations lining the windows, which added to the European winter wonderland ambience and Christmas-time aesthetic. The restaurant buzzed with chatter, alive with a sophisticated mid-to-older adult scene at 8:30 p.m. on a Wednesday night. Politely seated at my dimly candlelit table, I was ready to begin my gastronomic experience.

  Though the menu boasted a wide selection of Belgian, Swiss, German, Dutch and other European dishes, I decided upon a bar snack pretzel ($5), French onion soup ($12) and a tarte flambée ($14) to split as appetizers with my friends. Butter glistened atop the golden brown pretzel exterior and was complete with a side of dijon mustard dip.  The pretzel reminded me of New-York-street-style-turned-gourmet. Although the dijon was a bit too spicy for my taste, the toasty, melted butter and fluffy pretzel dough dulled the intensity and appeased my palette.

My second dish, the French onion soup, was served with crusted gruyere overflowing the bowl-top and was sprinkled with scallions for a farm-fresh finishing touch. As my spoon broke the thick top-layer to reach the broth beneath, the cheese-pull game was definitely strong. Finally bringing a spoonful to my mouth, the garlic croutons and sweet onions were perfectly softened and infused with the gruyere to create a combination of flavors richer than a typical French onion appetizer.

Next the tarte flambée, a flatbread topped with smoked bacon, sour cream and sweet onions, arrived rectangularly sliced, a geometric masterpiece almost too pretty to eat. The chewy bacon bits sprinkled with salt complimented the crunchy flatbread base and heavy sour cream spread. Although the tarte flambée did not disappoint, the French onion soup topped the charts for best appetizer I’ve ever eaten.

Moving on to the entrées with high expectations, we ordered a classic German chicken schnitzel ($21), beef bourguignon ($26) and a side of kasespatzle ($8) per our waitress’s recommendation. The beef bourguignon, a brisket served with mushrooms, carrots and a side of garlic bread, floated within the red wine sauce. I could taste the individual components as the brisket fell apart in my mouth and a burst of tender meat and silky wine intertwined to culinary perfection.

Next, we were on to the chicken schnitzel.  The thinly sliced and crisply fried cutlet was more than a glorified chicken tender and a perfect mix of moist interior and familiarly greasy exterior. A complimentary tin of the Scandinavian lingonberry jam, similar in flavor to cranberry, added a uniquely sweet tang to each bite. The side of kasespatzle, a German noodle melted with gruyere cheese and breadcrumbs, was impeccably creamy, and I could barely finish two spoonfuls.

Of course, I couldn’t skimp out on dessert, so we finished off our meal with a fan-favorite pretzel bread pudding ($9) topped with caramel sauce and a side scoop of vanilla ice cream. Though my stomach was a tad sore from the heavy plates beforehand, the sugary block of warm pretzel mixed with ice cream pooling underneath reawakened my sweet tooth cravings. The cinnamon and salt of the pretzel were brought to the forefront after an initial blast of caramel, completing the spectrum of flavors and my dining adventure.

From the cozy environment to the one-of-a-kind European menu offerings that stand out among the Westport restaurant repertoire, Rothbard Ale and Larder provides a meal worth dreaming about. While the prices leaned towards the higher end of the spectrum, most dishes were fit for two if not three to share lowering any cost burden. Conveniently located with a spacious parking lot, which is rare for downtown Westport, this restaurant is the perfect night-out spot for an upscale edge and an empty stomach. I will be sure to return.

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