By: Renee Weisz ’17
Along the picturesque Compo Road South driveway to the Long Island Sound waterfront lies a gem in the Westport restaurant scene: Pearl at Longshore.
On a rainy Wednesday night, the country club-esque exterior and a fireplace at the entrance radiated an especially romantic mood. Though the evening weather was dreary, the cozy restaurant interior, alive with couples and coworkers enjoying an after work meal, transported visitors to an upscale night-out on the town. My waiter was vibrant with chatter, adding a more personalized layer to my dining experience. As he seated me at a table on the covered patio, my stomach growled for what I was sure would be an exquisite meal.
Filled with modern and inventive selections with a sophisticated American style to their cuisine, the Pearl menu boasted a wide variety of fresh items with unique seasoning accents. After about 15 minutes of indecision due to the mouthwatering diversity, I decided upon the harvest kale salad ($12) and the daily soup special which consisted of the chef’s take on matzoh ball soup ($10).
Four small matzoh balls arrived in a steaming hot broth with a smattering of herbs, cooked carrots, and shredded chicken. The matzoh balls retained the perfect moisture to melt in my mouth yet remained chewable enough to soak up the chicken broth flavor. Nevertheless, the rest of the soup was a bit bland and in need of seasoning, and the chicken a bit too dry for my taste.
My second starter, the harvest kale salad, consisting of a colorful plate of gala apples, shaved carrots, pumpkin seeds, a pinch of sesame and miso dressing, immediately offset any lack of flavor in the soup. The satisfying crunch of the pumpkin seeds paired with the sweet apples created a mixture of textures that left me savoring each bite. The miso dressing and sesame seeds also added an Asian twist, and there was just enough smattering of dressing to lightly brush the kale.
As for the entrée, I followed the recommendation of my waiter and ordered one of the restaurant’s grass-fed meat specialities, the chicken milanese ($23). The fried chicken cutlet arrived with an artfully arranged selection of pink radish, cabbage, watercress, gala apples and lemon atop the meat. The sliced chicken tender intertwined with the bitter vegetables for a deliciously crispy combination. Though fried, the thin breadcrumb lining was not overwhelmingly greasy, but rather held the rich chicken flavor and softened the meat. While on the pricier side for a traditional chicken dish, each forkful left my tongue tingling with a savory culinary excellence.
Lastly, I ordered the cauliflower steak ($9) as a side dish to my main plate. A browned stalk of cauliflower brushed with butter and big enough to serve as an entrée floated above a pool of Romesco nut and pepper-based sauce mixed with the southern Italian Salmoriglio condiment made of lemon juice, olive oil, minced garlic, chopped oregano and parsley. Though too full from my past dishes to finish the cauliflower, this was by far my favorite item of the night. Each individual spice and herb component of the sauces could be tasted and complemented the less intense flavor of the cauliflower itself. For a cauliflower lover like me, this was an item worth every dollar.
From the scenic setting to the friendly service and upscale offerings, the Pearl provides an appetizing coastal dining experience. Though priced for an older crowd, every dish can be easily shared, allowing students an affordable special night out.
